Garage doors fail loudly (a bang and now it won't lift — that's the spring) or confusingly (opens but won't close, reverses at random, ignores the remote). The confusing ones are almost all DIY: misaligned sensors, travel limits, or a lock mode you didn't know existed. The loud one is not DIY — and knowing the difference protects both your wallet and your fingers.
Not sure this is your exact problem?Point your camera at it — SpotFix AI diagnoses it free in seconds, with a step-by-step AR guide for your exact model.
Scan It FreeThe two little eyes 6 inches off the floor on each track. Kicked mowers and brooms knock them askew constantly. Clean the lenses, aim them at each other until both LEDs glow steady (one amber, one green typically). This is the #1 garage door service call.
Swap the remote battery. Still dead: press LEARN on the opener head unit, then a button on the remote within 30 seconds. Wall button also dead? Check the outlet the opener's plugged into (see our dead outlet guide — GFCIs strike again).
Many wall consoles have a LOCK button that disables remotes — kids and elbows find it. Hold it 2–5 seconds to unlock. Also re-check the opener's outlet and breaker.
Two dials/buttons on the opener head (down-travel and force). The door thinks it hit something. Small adjustments, test between each. Also inspect the track for actual obstructions and the rollers for binding.
Weather seal compressing on an uneven floor reads as an obstruction. Slightly reduce down-travel.
Someone pulled the red release cord. Pull it again toward the door (or per your model), then run the opener — the trolley re-engages with a clunk. If the door is also very heavy to lift manually, STOP: that heaviness is a broken spring, and the opener was never the problem. Scan the spring area with SpotFix AI to confirm the break visually — then book the pro.
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