Weak water pressure has a dozen possible causes, but one question eliminates most of them instantly: is it one fixture, or the whole house? Answer that and you're 15 minutes from the culprit — which is usually a $0 cleaning, not a repipe.
Not sure this is your exact problem?Point your camera at it — SpotFix AI diagnoses it free in seconds, with a step-by-step AR guide for your exact model.
Scan It FreeOne faucet/shower = local blockage (aerator, cartridge, showerhead). Everything = supply-side (valves, PRV, or the utility). This fork decides the rest.
Unscrew the faucet tip (tape the pliers' jaws), and soak the screen in vinegar an hour. Showerheads: zip-bag of vinegar rubber-banded over it overnight. Mineral scale is the #1 cause in hard-water areas.
If cleaning didn't help, debris is in the valve cartridge — pull it (see our dripping faucet guide) and rinse. Check the hot side specifically; water heater sediment loves to clog hot lines.
The street-side meter valve and the house-side main must be FULLY open — a valve someone half-closed during past work explains years of mystery pressure loss. Quarter-turn valves parallel to the pipe = open.
Screw the gauge onto an outdoor spigot. 45–80 psi is normal. Low reading + a bell-shaped brass fitting near the main = failing pressure reducing valve; they die at 10–15 years. Adjustable, but replacement is the durable fix.
Sediment or a partially closed heater valve. Scan your setup with SpotFix AI — one photo of the meter/PRV/heater area and it flags the likely restriction point before you open anything.
50,000+ repairs diagnosed · 92% accuracy · users save $420 on average. Free on iOS.